By Alexandria Sage
SAN FRANCISCO, Feb 3 (Reuters) - With a penchant for off-the-rack American brands like Gap and J Crew, Michelle Obama could be a shot in the arm to a U.S. apparel industry desperate for excitement -- and sales.
Fashion choices made by America's new First Lady, who likes a mix of designer pieces and more affordable brands, can translate directly into dollars for apparel retailers facing a wide-ranging slump in demand as Americans cut back on clothing purchases.
"This is a living, breathing example of a First Lady having a massive influence," said Mandi Norwood, a former Mademoiselle editor writing a book on Obama's style, which she defines as "a wonderful mix of elevated couture and regular mall fashion."
Industry watchers say Obama, 45, a former lawyer and mother of two girls, speaks to today's shopper who is practical, frugal and pressed for time -- but still wants to look good.
Retail watchers cited stores like Gap and its Banana Republic chain, J Crew, Club Monaco and Chico's FAS' White House/Black Market chain as benefiting.
Apparel stores catering to women over 40 have felt the worst of the inertia pervading the industry. Chains from AnnTaylor Stores to Chico's, which have struggled to provide that audience with looks that are sophisticated, feminine yet a bit playful, have now been handed a marketing tool, experts said.
"Appealing to that mid-30s to mid-50s market has been such a challenge for so many retailers for so long," said Norwood. "Now with Michelle Obama they have found the vernacular. They literally have been handed the sales vocabulary they need."
Stores need to communicate to shoppers that they offer good-looking, wearable clothing that doesn't break the bank but still is chic, fun, and unique, experts say.
Savvy retailers are figuring out "how to parlay that into their go-forward strategy," said retail strategist Monica Tang of global consulting firm Kurt Salmon Associates.
FLEETING MOMENT?
But Tang cautioned that retailers facing slumping sales, lower inventory and pared-back spending cannot alter their original game plan to chase what could be a fleeting moment in the spotlight if Obama is seen wearing their store merchandise.
"This kind of opportunity could be a drop in the bucket or potentially a great marketing opportunity for the company she chooses to shop with," Tang said. "You can't veer yourself off track just because of the serendipitous event."
"J Crew obviously won the lottery here," she added.
The New York-based chain won't specify how it collaborates with the First Lady, but has touted the fact that its clothing -- including green leather gloves, colorful winter coats, and a presidential bow-tie -- were worn by the First Family over the inauguration weekend in front of a star-struck global audience.
J Crew shares rose 11 percent the day after the inauguration.
The public relations coup prompted a flood of calls and e-mails from curious shoppers to the company, who will make similar items available to the public this fall. It also opened the door to a sensitive issue -- how to capitalize on the free press without alienating the White House or loyal shoppers.
"We're struggling to find the balance of giving the customers what they want ... but also not to exploit the relationship (with the First Family)," said J Crew's creative director, Jenna Lyons.
The greatest contribution to the industry from Obama, who has also been seen wearing items from Gap and White House/Black Market, may be her endorsement of the notion that great fashion does not need to come with designer price tags, some said.
"That's a crucial point that retailers can capitalize on," said Tang. "What she's validated is you can spend $150 and look like a million."
White House/Black Market spokeswoman Jessica Wells agreed.
"In this economy, I think that's been part of the reason why people are so interested (in Obama). The fact that she can mix and match high and low -- it gives her more of a down-to-earth fashion identity that's relatable to a lot of Americans. I think that's a very modern way to dress."
It's also a message that even lower-cost retailers catering
to women on a budget can use, from Gap's Old Navy chain to
big-box retailers like Target Corp
"How can we give it to consumers for even less?" Tang said, explaining the challenge posed to these chains as they try to balance the sophisticated style aesthetic with lower prices.
Interest in what Obama is wearing has inspired media reports around the world, and a blog, http://www.mrs-o.org, which lovingly dissects her every fashion choice.
Moreover, the Obama daughters, 10-year-old Malia and Sasha, 7, have themselves captured the spotlight and a wide array of children's brands, from Gap to Gymboree Corp, could see their clothes on the national stage, experts say.
But don't expect President Barack Obama to give the industry a boost with a shopping spree. "I hate to shop," he told "Access Hollywood" last year. (Reporting by Alexandria Sage; editing by Richard Chang)